Street Savors of Thiruvananthapuram: Unveiling the Tapestry of Urban Food Culture through Food Wagons

 

Introduction

Food is a fundamental aspect of human life and culture. It provides nourishment, sustenance, and pleasure to people around the world. Food is deeply intertwined with culture. Different regions and communities have unique culinary traditions, ingredients, and preparation methods that reflect their history, values, and identity. Food is not only a vital aspect of human life but also a significant commercial item in a complex and multifaceted industry. The commercialisation of food involves a wide range of activities, from production and processing to distribution and marketing, and consumer preferences, regulatory standards, and global trade dynamics influence it.

Urban food culture is a dynamic and ever-evolving aspect of city life, reflecting the diverse culinary traditions, social interactions, and economic activities of urban areas. In recent years, food wagon eateries have gained prominence in many cities worldwide, contributing significantly to the urban food landscape. This study comes under the interdisciplinary field of Urban Studies, and this paper investigates the role of food wagon eateries in Thiruvananthapuram, shaping urban food culture, focusing on their impact on culinary diversity, social dynamics, economic development, and preserving culinary traditions.

Urban Food Culture and its Significance

Urban food culture is a city or metropolitan area's unique cuisine and culinary traditions. It is shaped by a variety of factors, including the city's history, geography, economy, and demographics. Urban food cultures are often characterised by their diversity, reflecting the many different cultures and cuisines in cities. Cities are home to people from all over the world, and this diversity is reflected in the available food. Urban food cultures are often characterised by a wide range of cuisines, from traditional to fusion to experimental. They are typically very accessible, with various dining options available at all prices. This includes restaurants, cafes, street food stalls, and food wagons. Urban residents are often busy and on the go, so that they can demand convenient food options. This has led to the rise of fast food, delivery services, and prepared meals. In recent years, they are increasingly focused on sustainability. This includes using local and seasonal ingredients, reducing waste, and supporting ethical food production practices.

Urban food culture is a dynamic and ever-changing landscape. It is shaped by the people living in cities and the global trends influencing our eating. Urban food cultures are essential in our lives, providing nourishment, enjoyment, and a sense of community.

Food Wagon Phenomenon in Urban Settings

Food wagons offer a variety of food options, from traditional to exotic, and are typically affordable and convenient. There are a number of factors that have contributed to the growth of the food wagon phenomenon in urban settings. One factor is the rise of the gourmet food movement. Food wagons are often at the forefront of this movement, offering innovative and unique dishes that cannot be found in traditional restaurants. Another factor contributing to the growth of the food wagon phenomenon is the demand for convenience. Food wagons are a convenient way to get a quick and affordable meal. They are often located in busy areas, such as office parks and downtown areas. They offer a wide variety of food options, from traditional to exotic. Food trucks are also known for being affordable and convenient. Finally, the popularity of social media has also helped promote food wagons. Food wagons often use social media to announce their locations and menus, which helps to attract customers.

Urban Food Culture in Thiruvananthapuram and Mapping Food Wagon Locations

Thiruvananthapuram, the capital of Kerala, has a rich and vibrant urban food culture. The city is home to various restaurants serving traditional Kerala cuisine and Indian and international cuisine. Thiruvananthapuram's street food culture is not just about the food itself. It is also about the experience of eating on the streets. Street food stalls are often crowded and bustling with activity. It is an integral part of the city’s urban food culture. It allows people to connect with their community and experience the city's unique culinary heritage.

I have selected four densely populated and food-wagon-rich locations in Thiruvananthapuram for this study. By using the word ‘food wagon,’ I’m implying trucks which serve food.

1. Kowdiar Route: Kowdiar is one of Thiruvananthapuram's most expensive and cleanest localities. Kowdiar is also home to several other important landmarks, including The Raj Bhavan, the official residence of the Governor of Kerala, Christ Nagar School, Trivandrum Golf Club, Trivandrum Tennis Club etc.

2. Kuravankonam Route: Kuravankonam is a densely populated residential area in the heart of Thiruvananthapuram city, which is well-connected to other parts of Thiruvananthapuram city by public transportation.

3. Vellayambalam Route: Vellayambalam is a residential neighbourhood with a mix of old and new houses. It has several government offices, including the Kerala State Archives, the Kerala State Museum, and the Kerala Central Library.

4. Vazhuthacaud Route: Vazhuthacaud is a commercial and educational neighbourhood. It is home to several schools, including the Government College for Women, the Cottonhill Girls Higher Secondary School, Tagore Theatre and the Headquarters of Kerala Forest Department.

The study will be based on the responses collected from food wagon owners and customers through interviews and surveys.

Analysing the Food Wagon Offerings

            The trend of ‘kitchen on wheels’, where food is prepared live and sold using a vehicle such as a modified truck, has been in the cityscape of Thiruvananthapuram for about five years. According to the manager of Istanbul Rolls and Grills, a popular food wagon in Kowdiar, they were the first in Thiruvananthapuram to open a food wagon. When the pandemic struck the city, almost every restaurant was forced to shut down. The dine-in option was unavailable, remaining the only option for take-outs. This paved the way for the two brothers to open a moving food delivery business parked on the roadside so the customers could buy them and leave quickly, adhering to the COVID-19 protocol.

            Following the success of Istanbul Rolls and Grills, many food wagons started businesses in different parts of the city. Another food wagon named Turkish Ottoman Rolls and Grills is on the same road in Kuravankonam. They also focus on shawarma rolls, which are easy to eat while standing or in a car without producing food waste. Their menu differs from Istanbul Rolls and Grills with Turkish masala mix.

While mapping the food wagon-rich locations, I could understand that most are situated near schools, offices and residential areas. This particular food wagon was opposite the Muthoot group apartments. A gym was next to it, and the main road connected to other residential areas. This Kowdiar- Kuravankonam main road connects with other major cities like Palayam, Vellayambalam, Peroorkkada, etc.; thus, people who pass this road are tempted to stop and try their evening snacks by the lights and mouth-watering aroma.

The next destination was the Vellayambalam route. A line of food wagons started from the Police headquarters to the Government School for Girls, Cottonhill. Unlike the Kowdiar- Kuravankonam route, we can see modern and traditional food options here. Rolls Shack's wagon provides charcoal shawarma, an authentic and healthy cooking style compared to fire-grilled shawarma. They also have three homemade sauces, which are both healthy and varied from the usual ketchup and mayonnaise.

Tattukada, a food wagon that offers traditional menus like Appam, Puttu, Porotta, Chicken Curry, Beef Roast, Chicken Thoran, Tea and Coffee, is operating next to Rolls Shack. When I observed the types of customers, Tattukada had more middle-aged people coming to try these traditional food items. For some of them, this could be their dinner. Some customers were workers from other states who came to get a budget-friendly dinner. The customers of Rolls Shack, Istanbul and Turkish Rolls and Grills were primarily youths, office workers, students and a few middle-aged people.

The newly opened Manaveeyam Veedhi at Vellayambalam is an icon of urban culture and nightlife. It is a cultural hub of Youths, writers, music bands, skaters, painters and public speakers. They gather around and engage in different programs like debates, band performances, speeches, skating performances, magic shows, etc. These activities last from three to four in the morning. Therefore, this is a perfect space for a food wagon business. Irani Food Truck, Payasakkada and other small street food stalls are lining the road. Irani Food Truck offers heavy food items like Biriyani, Fried Rice, Chicken and Beef curries and fries as their programs are held late at night. These food items take the role of their dinner. The wagon owners are smart enough to plan their menu for heavy meals as these programs need more energy to participate. Like me, people with a sweet tooth can have different types of Payasam from the Payasakkada as dessert.

Lebanese Rolls and Grills at Vazhuthacaud had Chicken and Beef shawarmas like Istanbul and Turkish Rolls and Grills. This wagon is next to the Cottonhill School, opposite the Church and an apartment complex. There was another wagon selling traditional menus like Tattukada. This was close to the bus stop and Sri Mulam Club.

            From the responses of the customers and food wagon owners, I could appreciate that Shawarma is the most sought-after dish, and that’s what these wagons sell the most. When asked about the diversity of food offerings in food wagons, they responded that they provide different types of shawarma. Regarding the traditional side, Porotta and Beef Roast is the best-selling item on the menu. For Keralites, Porotta and Beef Roast are considered as their state food. No other food items can beat this combination. As a Keralite, I can guarantee to that statement.

            Thus, we can confirm that Thiruvananthapuram is rich in its diverse food culture. Customers from every part of the city and social conditions are finding a home in food wagon offerings. With quality food available at affordable rates, students, especially hostellers, are daily consumers of such eateries.

City Food Culture and Nightlife

            The concept of street food is familiar per se and has been a part of everyday life worldwide. Food wagon is such an entity. From the survey, 83.3% of the participants agree that food wagons contribute to the city's cultural diversity. 58.3% of them showed that they might prefer food wagons over restaurants. When asked about the factors influencing their food wagon choices, 66.7% of them voted for the type of food the wagons offer. 50% of them agreed on the accessibility of these wagons from their home. Location, reputation, social media influence and rate of the items were also considered. More than half of the customers are happy with the quality and authenticity of the food offered.

Community Formation

If we look back at the food culture of Kerala, especially Thiruvananthapuram, we can see that the local teashops served as the cultural hub of that locality. It was a space where news was shared. People come to tea shops to sniff a piece of rumour and gossip around the town. If you want to know the current state of the city, the latest movie and its review, market prices, politics, matrimony, you name it, everything can be collected through these teashop discussions. These teashops formed a community that shared and accepted each other without prejudice.

            Food wagons are acting as the cultural hubs of urban life. Needless to say, those political debates, business ideas, movie talk, etc, remain in the teashops of the past. People these days rely on social media platforms to comment behind a screen. Most of them are refined from sharing opinions in public. In the survey, when the customers were asked if this food wagon acted as a place to form communities where they could talk and share general views on various topics while waiting for food, 66.7% voted negatively, and 16.7% showed uncertainty. On the other hand, when the same question was asked to food wagon operators, 60% gave an approving nod. The wagon owners also mentioned having a union called the Fast-Food Truck Association. They coordinate their working time and location and also fight for their rights.

Major Concerns

They maintain a clean and sustainable waste management system from the field observation. Since these wagons are operated within the city, the corporation's waste collection system collects all types of waste. None of the wagons I’ve interviewed faced any regulatory or license issues.   When I asked, ‘What changes or improvements, if any, would you suggest for food wagon eateries in Thiruvananthapuram to enhance their contributions to urban food culture?’ the survey participants replied with concerns about food quality and hygiene.

Future of Food Wagon Business

Recurring news on social media platforms is that graduates, especially B.Tech graduates, are opening food wagons due to unemployment. Students are influenced to open a food truck in the evenings as a part-time job for pocket money. 100% of the survey participants agreed that the food-wagon business has a high employment rate. They pointed out the blooming of new wagons with a variety menu. Unfortunately, the sad truth behind the food wagon business is the necessity.

The owners of Turkish Ottoman Rolls and Grills and Roll Shack shared their piece of misery behind this business. The COVID-19 pandemic locked most of their ongoing business down. They started this food wagon business by delivering food for those in need, hoping to move to different locations when the lockdown is confirmed. Constant traffic rules haunt them and make it hard to find a place to settle down. Their main issues were the need for more parking space, street lights, toilets for the workers, etc.

Standing near the furnace for too long is challenging since the shawarma is grilled at high temperatures. Thus, Keralites are unwilling to do the grilling job. So, they had to hire workers from other states for this. Therefore, this is not an ideal job for the youths who want to start a long-term business. One owner emphasises the need for more support from society. He opines that most people are interested in something other than nightlife.

Despite the hardships faced by the food wagon owners, it is a silver lining among the clouds that the youths are ready to experiment with new food varieties and the joys of urban life. The best example is the Keraleeyam 2023, Shankhumukham beach nightlife and IFFK fests conducted by the government of Kerala, which created a hike in the food wagon business and its popularity. Therefore, the food wagon business will likely rise, creating a new business class and room for employment, contributing to the state's economy.

Bibliography

1.     Nightingale, Justine. “The Rise of the Food Truck.” Restaurant Engine, 11 Dec. 2014, restaurantengine.com/rise-food-truck.

2.     “Food Wagons as Urban Food Culture (for Customers).” Google Docs, docs.google.com/forms/d/1JtnA4p9RpoeKoSH-_NSPztneV3oSdmYX_hiYzHkxUgA/edit#responses.

3.     “Food Wagons as Urban Food Culture (for Wagon Owners).” Google Docs, docs.google.com/forms/d/1dZIuoDspH6bhCKjgEB_-l35uswAGclTWn_Q5Nmev0kg/edit#responses.

4.     Google Images. www.google.com/imghp?hl=en&tab=ri&authuser=0&ogbl.

 

 

 മൂന്നാമിടം 

വേണം എനിക്കൊരിടം. 

ശാസനങ്ങൾ പൊറുതികേടാകുമ്പോൾ

പൊട്ടിത്തെറിക്കാനൊരിടം.

വിഷാദമേഘങ്ങൾ ശിരസ്സിൽ

കൂടുകൂട്ടുമ്പോൾ 

കരഞ്ഞൊഴിയാനൊരിടം.

ചങ്ങാത്തം കയ്ചുതുടങ്ങുമ്പോൾ

മധുരം തേടാനൊരിടം.

വെളിച്ചത്തിൽ ചിരിക്കുന്നവർ ഇരുട്ടിൽ കരയുമെന്ന് തിരിച്ചറിയുന്നൊരിടം.

ഒപ്പമുള്ളവർ മനസ്സിലാക്കാത്തപ്പോൾ

ഒപ്പം നിർത്തുന്നൊരിടം.

എന്നെഞാനായി കാണാനും

ഞാൻ ആരെന്ന് പറയാനുമൊരിടം. 

എനിക്കൊരിടം വേണം.

വീടിനും വെളിവിടത്തിനുമപ്പുറം, കടലിനും ആകാശത്തിനുമപ്പുറം,

ഒരു മൂന്നാമിടം.

.......................................

 The Arbit Documentation of an Amphibian Hunt: Aavasavyuham

 

Krishand’s award-winning movie Aavasavyuham (2022) communicates the synergy between nature and humans and their societal issues through a genre blend of documentary and fiction with a pinch of magic realism. This mockumentary revolves around one central character, Joy, who has a mystic relationship with all creatures in nature.

 The story moves through the interviews with a few people with whom Joy spent different phases of his life. They are Joy’s initial benefactor Kochraghavan; his ex-lover Lissy; his nemesis Murali and Susheelan Vava, who exploits Joy’s unique abilities for his benefit.

The story is in four parts, and the first two parts symbolise man’s innate bond with nature and her creations. In the beginning, we can see the simple life of Joy at Azhikode. A group of researchers comes in search of a new frog species, and Joy helps them to locate the frogs using a particular sound. The local people call him weird. No one knows where he came from or about his past. They compare him with an eel because not only he has a strong and flexible body, he always slips away from people and exists as a mystery. Lissy, the girl who was in love with Joy, describes that he always had a fishy smell, even though he doesn’t eat fish for meals. Her father, Kochuraghavan discovers Joy’s ability to call fish, prawns and other marine creatures when he makes a particular sound. Later, he flees from Azhikode after murdering Sajeevan.

The second part of the movie is about the new life of Joy in Puthuvype. Susheelan Vava, who found Joy on the seashore, took him home. He also found Joy’s secret ability to call fishes into the net. Contradictory to his name, Susheelan Vava is a greedy man. He exploits Joy’s ability to catch more and more fish and soon becomes rich. Vava compels Joy to call the fish and crabs again and again out of greed. We can see how Vava’s business blooms, and he becomes the owner of five fishing boats using Joy. There are times when Joy finds it challenging to catch fish. He realises that his doings are unfair to the fish. He considers them his friends. He soon notices that there are no more fish in the backwaters and sea due to overfishing.

         The transition from the second to the third part discusses the disturbance in nature due to human interventions. Vava recollects his father’s death from Viper’s bite. He says that there were no Vipers in Puthuvype. These immigrant Vipers came from the rock-powder and landfill from Eastern Kerala to fill the mangroves.

We also get a glimpse of the relentless fight against unplanned development in Puthuvype, which is a threat to traditional workers like fishermen, along with the instalment of dangerous chemical plants. This is the honest depiction of protests by the residents and the greens against establishing an LNG terminal in Puthuvype.

 When Vava mentions the hazardous plant, Joy asks if the fish, crabs and other creatures will die when the plant explodes, more than worrying about himself and other human beings. Environmentalists also noticed how dolphins stopped moving inwards to the backwaters from the sea after the terminal at Vallarpadam and Vypin LNG terminal. It was only during the Covid time that they reappeared during the high tides due to decreased traffic.

         The third part concerns the brutal depiction of the ‘Amphibian Hunt.’ Joy’s metamorphosis into a half-human half-frog form shocked the people and attracted worldwide attention. The dark side of the police department is mocked for utilising the folks’ curiosity to catch a glimpse of this Frog-man with an entry fee. The now-transformed Joy is trapped inside a house and is mistreated. He is soon shot dead by Murali as revenge for murdering his brother, Sajeevan.

        

The final part shows the skeleton of Joy preserved in the Zoology Museum, Paris for further research. The first two parts show us how Joy was treated as a human and in the second part as an animal. The difference in treatment towards human’s own kind and other animals is clearly distinguished in this movie. There is an instance where the simpleton Joy acts like a goon for Vava. That scene shows how the pure-hearted Joy is tainted with human crookedness and folly.

The role of Joy was starred by the Karikku fame actor Rahul Rajagopal. This movie bagged several awards such as the FIPRESCI Prize at the 26th International Film Festival of Kerala for Best Malayalam Film, the NETPAC Award by Kerala State Film Award for Best Feature Film, the Award for Best Original Screenplay and also got a nomination for the Golden Crow Pheasant Award.  

The curiosity of humans to learn about the unknown is a never-ending journey. Humans are always searching for new species and are excited to make theories behind their origin and flaunt them through debates and discussions, just for fame. They kill animals and other creatures without rhyme and reason just for a moment of joy or for personal benefit. Joy was a gift of nature, the one who could connect with both humans and nature. Just like Jesus Christ, he was crucified in the end by humans.

 

  Aavasavyuham depicts the co-existence with nature. Since we are living in an artificial nature with advanced technology, it’ll be hard to go back to the original nature. We cannot live without exploiting nature because we depend upon many natural resources. Overexploitation is the reason for all these backlashes from nature as a form of reforming the equilibrium.

“We have changed the atmosphere, and thus we are changing the weather. By changing the weather, we make every spot on earth man-made and artificial.” [McKibben.1989.]

Through movies like Aavasavyuham, the director makes us think better about our relationship with both nature and our fellow beings and how to make it better for equal co-existence.

 よるのしゅご!

27たいようをまた

あいのめがみ。

 

രാത്രി വിണ്ണിൻ്റെ കാവൽക്കാരീ!

ഇരുപത്തേഴ് സൂര്യൻമാരേയും ഉറക്കി,

അനശ്വരസ്നേഹദേവതയ്ക്കായി ഞാൻ കാത്തിരിപ്പൂ...

 

O guardian of night!

I counted 27 suns to meet you...

My goddess of eternal love.

 ちちのあい

かめのように

おそいがつよい。

 

കൂർമ സമാനം പിതൃസ്നേഹം;

കാർക്കശ്യത്തോടിൻറെ കുപ്പായം

ഉളളിലോ സ്നേഹസൗമ്യ ഹൃദയം.

 

Dad loves like tortoise;

Seems strong and stern on outside

But so soft inside. 

 

とりのうた　

はなのかおり

はるがきた。

 

കിളികളുടെ കൂജനം,

പുഷ്പങ്ങളുടെ സുഗന്ധം;

വസന്തം വരവായി.

 

Flock of chirping birds,

Sweet scent of flowers around;

Spring is here again. 

 

ようきな こ

わらうをやめた

さむくなた。

 

വെളിച്ചപ്പെട്ട പെൺകുട്ടി

ഇലപൊഴിയും കാറ്റിൻ വിധി നോട്ടത്തിൽ

തണുത്തുറഞ്ഞു.

 

Cheerful summer girl

Falling leaves judged her brightness

Become pale cold-white.